Preparing Vertical Side Panels for the Panzer Plate
1. First, on level ground, raise the front of the car evenly. To do this, you may choose to drive the car onto ramps, jack the car up and secure with two jack stands or use a car lift. If using jack stands or ramps be sure to chock the rear wheels and place the car in gear and firmly apply the handbrake. You should also wear safety goggles during this entire procedure.
2. Once the car is safely raised, remove the Original Equipment Audi plastic belly pan if your car still has one. Next, on the driver side, remove the rear T25 Torx screw from the tail end of the plastic vertical engine bay side panel. In order for the Panzer skid plate to fit, the mounting spot on the subframe where the side panel attaches must not have a Torx screw or side panel attached to it. Retain the T25 Torx screws for the final skid plate install.
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• Remove Wheels
• Remove nut (1) and bolt (2). (According to manufacturer, “Audi”, bolt and nut must be replaced)
• move the two upper balljoints (3 and 4) upwards.
• remove nut (5) and bolt (6).
• remove caps and take off nuts (7 and 8).
• remove complete shock spring assembly.
• Dismantel using spring compressor
• while dismantling the shock spring assembly – review the parts list.
• Note: When removing the spring shock – unit consider the position of the pivot bearing (Figure 2).
• Adjust lower spring seat height (see parts list, upper edge spring plate to center attachment bolt)
• Installation is the reverse or removal. Note torque specs of following page.
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DISASSEMBLY STEPS:
1. Remove and retain the TCC solenoid.
2. Remove and discard the OEM TCC boost valve and sleeve, TCC apply valve, and spring.
REAMING INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Remove all components from the bore. Discard the TCC boost assembly, TCC apply valve and TCC apply spring.
2. Clean the valve body bore thoroughly in a solvent tank.
3. Securely clamp the valve body horizontally to the bench, making sure not to clamp directly over the bore to be reamed.
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Installing the Front Skid Plate Mounts
The Audi TT Panzer Plate uses two stainless steel exhaust clamps to hold the front part of the plate to the beefy steel intercooler tube. This is the large diameter tube that crosses the front of the car from left to right in the lower engine bay. The stainless exhaust clamps fit the diameter of the intercooler tube perfectly. The passenger side exhaust clamp is used alone without any other bracketry. The driver side mount uses the same stainless exhaust clamp as the passenger side but the driver side clamp is attached to the custom aluminum bracket bracket.
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START WITH THE REAR BAR
1. Drive the vehicle onto a 4-post lift or floor ramps. THE CAR NEEDS TO BE AT NORMAL RIDE HEIGHT FOR PROPER INSTALLATION. You cannot have the suspension hanging while installing this bar!
2. Once vehicle is raised, take a moment and observe the stock rear bar and the way in which it is mounted.
3. Release rear exhaust hangers and middle hangers then let hang. (ok to use small amount of WD40 to loosen) Or, you may unbolt the hanger brackets using an extension and 13mm socket.
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Tools required:-vehicle ramp or jack and axle stands, drill and 8.3 or 8.5mm drill bit, T45, T30,T27and T25 torx drivers, 10mm socket/ratchet, 6mm Allen key, Flat blade screwdriver, safety clothing, footwear and eyewear are also recommended.
Raise vehicle and open bonnet/hood. It is necessary to remove the front panel and grill from the front of the vehicle.
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Using Audi-specific radio removal keys, remove the radio from the dash by pulling toward you after the four locks have been disengaged. The radio fits very tightly into the opening even when the locks are released. Disconnect all plugs from the back of the factory radio, remove and set aside. MAKE SURE THAT YOUR RADIO IS NOT CODED OR THAT YOU HAVE THE CODE BEFORE
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For cars with a THREADED gear knob (early Audi,VW,Seat to approx 2005) follow the instructions from point 2
For cars with a SLOTTED gearknob (approx 2005 on) follow the instructions from point 8
1. If fitting to an Audi TT, first using a T20 screwdriver, undo all 8 of the T20 screws surrounding the gear stick. Other cars with a screw on gearknob, skip to point 2..then lift the ring away to expose the rubber underneath
2. Unscrew the existing gearknob….and remove the rubber gaitor and aluminium spacer (if applicable) from the gear stick.
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Installation Instructions:
1. Refer to the illustrations and location chart for correct size shift cups.
2. Using a T20 Tork Plus bit, remove the existing OEM plastic shift cup and discard.
3. Using a T20 Tork Plus bit, install the correct size replacement aluminum shift cup.
4. Make sure the replacement shift cup is properly rotated so that the tabs will retain the valve body components securely.
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Ratcheting End Plug Removal:
Note: Prior to removing the ratcheting end plug from the bore, measure and note how deeply it is installed. The replacement plug should be installed to this same depth to ensure proper line pressure control. The most accurate method is to insert a slide caliper rod through the hole in the plastic plug until it bottoms against the control valve. Bring the caliper end toward the plug until flush. This gives you the spring height adjustment from the plug to the valve. Record this measurement before removing the plug and duplicate this distance during reassembly to most accurately duplicate the spring compression setting. If your caliper will not pass through the hole, measure from the valve body casting surface to the outer face of the OEM plug and duplicate later.
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