These instructions have been designed for unaltered vehicles. Before you start, check for any variations. Each vehicle may dictate it’s own control mount and cable routing. Therefore, you will need to study the pictures and use your good judgement or seek professional help. Lift kits may govern how and where the cable is routed. Always keep the cable away from heat (exhaust) and rough or sharp edges. If you are concerned about lower cable damage or abrasion, we recommend cutting a length (about 3 feet) of 5/8” ID plastic or rubber hose (garden or heater) to be slid over the cable before assembly. Please keep in mind, the warranty is void on heat damaged or abused cables. Before drilling, check for any electrical wires, hoses, etc.

1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the front skid plate to allow easy access for cable routing.
2. Remove the three screws from the left side of the center dash lower panel and the screws from the front (dash edge) of the left foot panel to allow access to the torx headed screw.
3. Remove the torx bolt and replace with a longer 6mm-1.00 x 35mm bolt and washer. Install the cable dash mounting bracket with the open slot under the bolt and washer, then tighten the bolt.
4. With the dash mounting bracket as a guide, drill 5/32″ hole through the dash support. Install a #10 x 1″ sheet metal screw and tighten. Reinstall the panel screws. If you miss the dash metal brace you can cut the length of the multi-hole strap and install the u-nut to secure the left side using a #10 x 1″ sheet metal screw.
5. Cut a large hole in the firewall insulation 3″ below the steering column and 2″ to the right of the wire. Use a unibit to drill an 11/16″ hole through the firewall.
6. Remove the nut and washer from the cable. Route the cable through the dash bracket and install the washer and nut before sliding the cable through the firewall hole.
7. Cut the provided rubber grommet on one side to form a “C” and thread it in the firewall hole around the cable. Tighten the cable nut to 10 ft-lbs.

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