The information contained in this guide has been prepared for use by persons installing two-way radio equipment (transmitters and receivers) in vehicles. It has been prepared in accordance with current engineering principles and generally accepted practices, using the best information available at the time of publication. It is not possible to cover all of the possible installations of two-way radio equipment in this guide. Accordingly, DaimlerChrysler Corporation cannot be held responsible for incidental or consequent damages arising out of the use of the information contained herein. Installations and modifications are solely the customer’s responsibility

The installation recommendations presented here are intended to supplement the radio manufacturer’s instructions. Test the entire installation for anomalies, especially drivetrain and brake control before extensive driving.

The owner’s first line of contact regarding vehicle problems is the dealer. The literature supplied with each vehicle lists the steps to be taken in the event the dealer is unable to resolve the problem. To assist in properly installing communications equipment in DaimlerChrysler vehicles, the following information is provided. Always use good construction practices (see The ARRL Handbook or other standard reference.

1. CONTROLS Mount the transceiver to a solid surface. If you use screws through the floor, put body sealer over the underbody projections. (Stamped acorn nuts, filled with sealer are available at most body shops for this purpose.) This will keep moisture out of the carpet and insulation, and will forestall rust in this area. Watch out for wire harnesses routed under carpet and behind instrument panel. If you mount the radio under the instrument panel, be sure that there is no interference with proper operation of the foot controls. Mount the control head or front panel (especially the microphone cable) so that it is clear of the steering wheel and column controls and passenger airbag. If the unit is heavy, extra bracing may be needed for stability. Newer vehicles have more structure and energy absorbing materials in the knee blocker (the lower part of the Instrument Panel). Try the installation out before you start drilling holes.
2. POWER WIRING To reduce the hazard of working on the vehicle, disconnect the battery NEGATIVE before beginning work. Note that some components may lose short-term memory (e.g.: engine or transmission adaptive parameters, radio presets) after a protracted time without battery power. For low or medium power transmitters (up to 55W FM or 110W SSB or CW), the interior power distribution center or the power outlet or cigar lighter feed may be used. Use an appropriate jumper terminal at the socket or splice (solder and heat shrink or tape). For higher power transmitters, including amplifiers, connect the power (battery +) lead at the battery or at the power distribution center1 or at the positive jump-start post, if the vehicle has one. If ignition switching is desired, use a relay to prevent overloading the ignition switch.

Appropriate terminals should be used. If a terminal is exposed to the weather, solder and apply a commercial protectant (wheel bearing grease is an acceptable alternative.) to retard corrosion. The power lead should be fused as close to the battery as practical to protect the wiring (and the vehicle)! If the power connection is underhood, use a weatherproof fuse holder. Motorola Communications Division supplies a weatherproof holder, part number 09-84277B01 for 5AG cartridge fuses that is part of their standard installation kit. Packard Electric Division of Delphi Automotive Systems makes an insulator, part number 12033769, terminal number 12020156 with cover 12033731 for standard SAE plastic fuses.

Vinyl-insulated wire, typically supplied with transceivers is not entirely suitable for the higher underhood temperatures in modern vehicles. Route underhood wiring away from all hot areas, away from the exhaust, radiator, A/C liquid line and engine. Along body sheet metal is usually the coolest location. DO NOT FUSE THE GROUND LEAD. If the ground-side fuse were to open, the entire supply current would be conducted by an alternate current return path, which may cause the feedline to overheat, with possible resulting damage.

For low or medium power installations, connect the ground (battery -) to body sheet near the power feedpoint. If you use a screw through the floor, put body sealer over the underbody projection. (Stamped acorn nuts, filled with sealer are available at most body shops for this purpose.) For high power installations, connect the ground (battery -) lead at the battery connection to the body. This is usually a 6 or 8 AWG black wire from the battery negative terminal to a screw at the wheelhouse or radiator support. If a separate sheet metal ground is used, clean the paint off a one inch or so diameter area of body panel where the ground lead is to be connected (usually the case with commercial trunk mount radios). An awl is the best tool to use to pierce a starting hole for a #12 or 5mm, minimum, plated ground screw. A ring terminal with lockwasher serrations of the proper size for the screw or a separate serrated (not a split or SAE) lockwasher should be used between the terminal and the screw head. As above, some grease or protectant should be used if the connection is in an unprotected area.

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