INSTALLATION OF HOTCHKIS FRONT STABILIZER BAR
1) Please look at the original front antiroll bar and note the orientation of the front bar. You will want to install the new Hotchkis bar in the same manner.
2) Securely block the rear wheels of the vehicle. Use a jack to raise the vehicle and support with jack stands.
3) Remove the factory plastic undertrays from the car with a 10mm socket on the bolts, and a small screwdriver to pry open the plastic trim plugs.
4) Disconnect the endlink from the stabilizer bar using a 14mm wrench.
5) Using a 14mm socket and extension, remove the factory frame brackets. Then remove the stock bar from the vehicle.
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I. Preparing the Vehicle
1. Elevate the vehicle and secure the frame with jack stands.
2. Remove the front wheels.
II. Strut Removal
1. Remove the three nuts securing the upper strut mounting bracket and discard.
NOTE: These are located inside the engine compartment above the strut pocket.
3. Remove the upper clevis retaining bolt and save for reinstallation.
4. Lift the lower end of the strut out of the clevis and remove the strut from the vehicle.
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Disassembly
1. Thoroughly clean and air dry valve bodies. Remove check balls. Remove each valve train.
2. Lay valves, springs and bushings on a clean surface in the order removed. Remove solenoids, sensor, screens, servos and accumulator assemblies.
Cleaning & Inspection
Clean valves, springs and bushings in solvent. NEVER use shop rags to clean valve body components. Inspect valves and bushings for scoring, nicks and scratches. Inspect springs for damaged or distorted coils. Inspect valve body casting for porosity, interconnected oil passages and damaged machined surfaces.
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This kit was designed for use with TM Kit# F4531. Use of this kit with other suspension kits and shocks, including coilovers, has not been verified. Proceed with caution. Interferences may exist. This kit should only be installed on a vehicle that is in good working condition. Before you install the kit, thoroughly inspect the vehicle for corrosion or deformation of the sheet metal. If the vehicle is suspected to have been in a collision or misused, do not install this kit. Off-road use of your vehicle with this kit installed may increase the stress applied to the factory components. Failure to observe this warning may result in serious personal injury and/or severe damage to your vehicle.
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START WITH THE REAR BAR
1. Drive the vehicle onto a 4-post lift or floor ramps. THE CAR NEEDS TO BE AT NORMAL RIDE HEIGHT FOR PROPER INSTALLATION. You cannot have the suspension hanging while installing this bar!
2. Once vehicle is raised, take a moment and observe the stock rear bar and the way in which it is mounted.
3. Release rear exhaust hangers and middle hangers then let hang. (ok to use small amount of WD40 to loosen) Or, you may unbolt the hanger brackets using an extension and 13mm socket.
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1. Remove tailgate by disconnecting the tether cable and lifting the tailgate out at approximately a 45º angle. (Reference the truck’s Owner’s manual)
2. Carefully remove the OEM tailgate pivot cups from the tailgate taking note of which side they belong on.
3. Remove tether bolt. A special wrench may be required.
4. Remove latch pin bolt. A special wrench may be required.
5. Figures 1 through 5 show the three styles of TireGates
6. Install the supplied pivot cups and the right and left OEM pivot cups in the left and right side uprights. See Figure 6.
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Trail Master recommends this system be installed by a certified technician! These instructions address installation of the Trail Master system and may not include OE recommended procedures for disassembly / reassembly of OE components. Research the areas requiring certification. In addition to these instructions, professional knowledge of disassembly / reassembly procedures as well as post installation checks are required. Attempts to install this system without knowledge and expertise may jeopardize the integrity and or operating safety of the vehicle.
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This shock is pressurized to 250 psi nitrogen. This pressure is not an adjustable feature of the shock. Unless there is a leak, the shock should not normally lose pressure. If the shock damping becomes soft or mushy (after an extended period of time or number of miles) the shock may need to be serviced which includes shock oil and a nitrogen charge. In this situation, re-pressurizing the shock alone may not improve the action of the shock. The shock should be returned to Works Performance Products, Inc., or to a qualified shop that has the appropriate tools, training and nitrogen handling equipment.
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