Flange Requirements:
DEI’s resilient seated (RS) valves are designed for installation between ANSI Class 125/150 flat or raised faced flanges. Gaskets are not required. Lined pipe, heavy wall pipe or flanges must have a minimum allowable inside diameter at the centered body face to clear the disc sealing edge when opening the valve.

Storage:
The valves should be stored on a pallet or “skid” in a clean, dry warehouse. If the valves must be stored outside, the following apply:
1. Valves must be kept off the ground high enough to avoid standing water.
2. Cover the valves with a water repellant cover (not included with valve).
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1. Remove tailgate by disconnecting the tether cable and lifting the tailgate out at approximately a 45º angle. (Reference the truck’s Owner’s manual)
2. Carefully remove the OEM tailgate pivot cups from the tailgate taking note of which side they belong on.
3. Remove tether bolt. A special wrench may be required.
4. Remove latch pin bolt. A special wrench may be required.
5. Figures 1 through 5 show the three styles of TireGates
6. Install the supplied pivot cups and the right and left OEM pivot cups in the left and right side uprights. See Figure 6.
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TIMING FUNCTIONS
Before continuing with the installation, here are a few definitions you should be aware of: Initial Timing: This is the base timing (also referred to as idle timing) of the engine before centrifugal advance begins. Centrifugal Advance: The centrifugal advance mechanism is made up of weights, springs, advance cam, and an advance stop bushing. The amount and rate of advance that your distributor is capable of is determined by the centrifugal timing. If you ever wish to lock out the centrifugal advance, refer to the centrifugal advance section.
Total Timing: This is the total of the initial timing plus the centrifugal advance added together. Example: 10° Initial + 25° centrifugal = 35° Total Timing.
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The NEW BMW 7 Series door lock (Shown Below) – You will not be able to decode the door lock with the tool because the angle of the lock will prevent you from obtaining the correct readings. However, you will be able to decode the boot lock on this model of car successfully.
Note: in some models you have to apply a little bit of force in order to open the car but not to much because excessive force can bend the half key bits.
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1. Start by supporting the car on 4 jack stands. The car should be sitting on approximately the same angle as it does on the ground, or slightly lower in front.
2. Remove all the old front suspension components. Note that on the underside of the frame are the two rubber axle snubbers (or the holes for them, if they are missing) directly above the axle. Mark them for later reference.
3. We would recommend that at this point, you tack weld or clamp a temporary brace across the frame rails in front of the old crossmember as shown in
Figure 1. This helps to maintain the rail dimension after the old crossmember is removed.
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1. Start by supporting the car on 4 jack stands. The car should be sitting on approximately the same angle as it does on the ground, or slightly lower in front. (If you are using a new pair of boxed frame rails, you can skip to step 5.)
2. Remove all the old front suspension components. We would recommend that at this point, you tack weld or clamp a temporary brace across the frame rails in front of the old crossmember as shown in Figure 1. This helps to maintain the rail dimension after the old crossmember is removed. Lastly, remove the old crossmember by drilling out the rivets.
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