REMOVAL 1. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER 2. DRAIN ENGINE OIL 3. 4WD: REMOVE FRONT DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVE SHAFTS ASSEMBLY 4. REMOVE DRIVE BELT FOR GENERATOR, FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND WATER PUMP PULLEY (See page CO–5) 5. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY (See page EM–34) 6. DISCONNECT A/C COMPRESSOR AND BRACKET (a) Remove the 4 bolts, and disconnect the compressor from the bracket. HINT: Put aside the compressor, and suspend it. (b) Remove the 4 bolts and A/C compressor bracket. 7. REMOVE GENERATOR, ADJUSTING BAR AND BRACKET (a) Disconnect the generator connector. (b) Remove the nut, and disconnect the generator wire and wire clip. (c) Remove the lock bolt, pivot bolt and generator. (d) Remove the bolt and adjusting bar. (e) Remove the 3 bolts and generator bracket. 8. (more…)

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The Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap #7516 intake manifold has been designed for 262-400 c.i.d. small-block Chevy engines equipped with Vortec style cylinder heads. The manifold accepts late model water neck, air conditioning, alternator and H.E.I. ignition systems. Use the recommended electric or manual type choke square bore carburetors only. This intake manifold is recommended for street high performance and race vehicles only. The RPM Air Gap manifold provides good low rpm response for street performance vehicles while providing increases in horsepower and torque up to 6500 RPM. When used with any mix of aftermarket equipment designed for this operating range, the performance increases will be even greater.
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With a used vehicle, we suggest a penetrating spray lubricant to be applied liberally to all exhaust fasteners and allowing a significant period of time for the chemical to lubricate the threads before attempting to disassemble.
1. Carefully disconnect and remove the oxygen sensors located just behind each front flange as the left side shown in figure 1. Place them to the side for use during the installation of your new exhaust system.
2. Unbolt and remove the center support bar shown in figure 2. Place the hardware to the side for use during the installation of your new exhaust system.
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This suspension kit consists of all parts necessary to make a successful installation onto your Vehicle. All parts have been tested thoroughly. Please make sure you take all necessary safety precautions while fitting the kit.
Note: you should first read these instructions carefully and then take all parts out of the box and pre-assemble them as far as possible before fitting them onto your vehicle.
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Precision manufactured using aircraft quality T-304 stainless steel; this system is designed to endure years of heavy use. Installing a Borla Performance Exhaust System on your vehicle will eliminate the restrictive design of the stock exhaust, allowing your engine to discharge exhaust gas easier. The result is more horsepower and torque, longer engine life, and a distinctive throaty growl- all this, with easy bolt-on installation. These installation instructions have been written to help you in the installation of your Borla Performance Exhaust System. Please read it completely before installing your system.
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Instructions:
1. Remove the stock GM 245mm impeller hub by boring a 3.380″/3.385″ diameter hole on center in the stock GM 245mm impeller (see Figure 1).
2. Install the Sonnax CH-90CM-27 impeller hub from the outside. Weld around the OD of the impeller hub, making sure it is centered in the impeller. This weld must be leak-proof (see Figure 2).
3. Once the impeller hub is fitted, fixture the impeller assembly in the lathe. Turn the lip of the impeller so that it is 3.80″ from the end of the impeller hub. Then turn the OD down to 10.150″/10.145″ diameter, .40″ from the end (see Figure 3).
4. Install the adapter ring on the impeller assembly as shown in Figure 4 and weld around the OD of the impeller. This weld must be leak-proof.
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Lay out the exhaust and compare part numbers with the drawing.
To remove stock exhaust cut your stock tailpipe off, remove hangers from rubber grommets, use wd-40 to help with removal. now un-bolt your factory exhaust at the flanges located just after your y-pipe.
Bolt passenger side headpipe # a onto factory dome using hardware kit # l. do not tighten. insert hanger into rubber grommet, next slip driver side headpipe # b onto factory pipe use clamp # h to secure. do not tighten next install muffler #c. slide it onto headpipe 1-1/2” to 2”. attach to headpipes with clamp # h. inlet shoud go towards the motor. inlet of muffler is looking into the louvers. do not tighten. outlets will be on the bottom.
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Because this is a “Race Only” product, it will not meet emissions standards. As it is a “Race Only” product, it will also cause the “Check Engine” light to be illuminated after three complete driving cycles. This is not a problem for maximum performance. The “Check Engine” light will not cause the engine computer to go into a “Safe Mode”. It is only a system function indicator. Special Note on the handling of your Jackson Racing Stainless Steel header: Congratulations on your purchase of the Jackson Racing Stainless Steel header. This is the finest header on the market today. It is constructed from 100% stainless steel. Including the flanges. It will not rust! But special care must be taken during the installation and handling of the Stainless Steel if you want the tubing to always look good.
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When installing this exhaust system make sure to use proper safety precautions. Use jack stands when working under the vehicle, set parking brake, block tires and use safety glasses and gloves. Allow exhaust to cool before attempting installation. Severe injury or burns could occur if safety measures are not taken.
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1. Start by supporting the car on 4 jack stands. The car should be sitting on approximately the same angle as it does on the ground, or slightly lower in front.
2. Remove all the old front suspension components. Note that on the underside of the frame are the two rubber axle snubbers (or the holes for them, if they are missing) directly above the axle. Mark them for later reference.
3. We would recommend that at this point, you tack weld or clamp a temporary brace across the frame rails in front of the old crossmember as shown in
Figure 1. This helps to maintain the rail dimension after the old crossmember is removed.
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