Header Guidelines
1. When ordering headers, be sure to check vehicle make, model, year of manufacture and engine size. Check all footnotes in this Application Guide. This will ensure you are recommending the correct product.
2. Open the header box and show the customer that all parts are included (gaskets, reducers and bolts). This will end a majority of returns for lost parts. Make sure the customer follows the manufacturer’s instructions when installing.
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Prepping The Block
Disconnect battery; remove all existing accessory drive brackets and components from motor.
Remove water pump, scrape away any existing gasket material with a gasket scraper and dress surface with a Scotch Brite® pad.
Clean and prep threads on engine block at water pump and driver side bosses by crank (for power steering kits), use a 3/8-16 thread chaser if necessary. Thread chasers are available at your local auto parts store or tool dealer and are different from a thread cutting tool.
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Start by removing the factory pillar. This is done by pulling down the rubber door gasket and removing the two screws in the handle area of the pillar, tip the top towards the steering wheel to get it out. You have to use a little force to get it free of the dash.
Though the gauge pod is intended to be used as a replacement for the factory pillar, we suggest cutting the handle off of the factory pillar and using the gauge pod as a cover. This is so that the backs of the gauges will not be visible through the windshield after installation.
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For bolts into aluminum, use light oil, or anti-seize, not Loctite! For bolts into the steel bracket, use Loctite.
Check for free movement of the lever and pulley after bolting to the bracket! If the lever sticks at any point in it’s travel, check the bracket for any weld spatter, or plating material, and use a Dremel to smooth the area. If the pulley pin is rubbing, it may be pressed in too far. Support the back side of the pulley, and press or tap it in with a hammer, until it has clearance.
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If like me, you forgot to change the timing belt at the last service and it went “ping” while driving to the shops, you may wish to invest in new engine, or at the very least a few new valves, rockers and possibly the cylinder head… If you are sensible and know that it needs changing, then this little guide is for you. Applies to the 1.4 and 1.6 CVH or PTE engine, but can be applied generally to other models too. Pictures and references to Haynes are made in square brackets where appropriate!
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Step 1: Remove the intake in order to free up space so you can get to the back of the passenger side headlight.
Step 2: Remove the access cap on the back of the headlight to reveal the stock bulb. Also think about where you want to mount the ballast so you can clean the surface with degreaser or alcohol so that the sticky pad will stick. I chose to place my ballast under the intake as shown. Also unplug the bulbs wiring harness so you can remove the stock halogen bulb.
Step 3: Drill a 1” hole into the back access cap for the wires to feed through. Then feed the wire harness of the bulbs through the hole from the inside out and seal the 1” hole that you drilled with the gasket as shown. You should have the bulb and the connector that will plug into the OEM bulb harness both coming out of the same side.
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This month’s column is the short version of an article I wrote for Miata Magazine about a Mazda Miata cylinder head and intake manifold project we were contracted for by Bill Cardell of “Flyin Miata”. Flyin Miata is a Miata high performance specialty house located in Grand Junction, Colorado. The full text version, pictures and dyno charts of this article are in the magazine version out this month. The cylinder head and intake manifold was from a Miata 1.6-liter engine that had undergone a bit of Bill’s turbo add-on magic. The subject in question is a streetcar and would be a daily driver. We would remain conservative here; this is not an all out race engine or car. Still, we could and would help make it stronger.
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Components depicted here correspond to cylinder bank 1. They are different only as a mirror image of components for cylinder bank 2.
1 – Connecting hose On vehicles with engine code BWF To crankcase ventilation valve Ensure seated tightly
2 – Sealing sleeve On vehicles with engine code BWF Replace if damaged Ensure seated tightly
3 – Bracket On vehicles with engine code BWF For intake hose between air filter and intake manifold flap
4 – Acoustic cover For vehicles with engine code BWF
5 – Cylinder head cover On vehicles with engine code BWF Always clean sealing surfaces of cylinder head cover with a clean cloth before setting in place Replace seal together with cylinder head cover if damaged or leaking Observe tightening sequence of bolts
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The BMW Motorrad Navigator II, successor to the successful BMW Navigator, is now available. Many changes have been incorporated, resulting in the best motorcycle GPS unit currently available. Faster and Better Performance A significantly faster RISC processor combined with an integrated USB connection make the data transfer process from PC to Navigator easier and virtually instantaneous.
The satellite antenna is now integrated inside the Navigator II contributing to its streamlined appearance. The BMW Motorrad Navigator II utilizes readily available CompactFlash® memory cards. Included card memory is a substantial 512 MB, allowing huge areas of detailed map data to be stored on-board.
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The following Repair Manual information is new and will be integrated with the next Repair Manual update. CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVING AND INSTALLING Refer to Fig. 1. 11 – Cylinder head bolt * Always replace. * Different versions depending on cylinder head gasket type. 14 – Cylinder head gasket * Always replace. * New metal gasket from 03/95. * Installing replacement metal gasket requires different cylinder head bolts. * When replacing gasket, replace engine coolant.
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