Entries Tagged as 'oil pump'

The Moroso Dry Sump Oil Pump is designed to fit either 90° V-6, small or big block Chevrolets, and the only difference is the mounting holes. You can see that there are two sets of slotted holes on the mounting bracket, which attaches the pump to the engine block.
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Camshaft timing belt must be replaced if cylinder head is to be removed or if drive gears, tensioner or coolant pump are to be replaced. Camshaft timing belts must be stored and handled with care. Always store a camshaft timing belt on its edge with a bend radius greater than 2.0″ (50 mm). DO NOT use a camshaft timing belt that has been twisted or bent double, as this will damage reinforcing fibers. DO NOT use a camshaft timing belt if debris other than belt dust is found in timing belt covers. DO NOT use a camshaft timing belt if partial engine seizure has occurred. DO NOT reuse a camshaft timing belt if mileage exceeds 45,000 miles. DO NOT use an oil or coolant contaminated timing belt (cause of contamination must be rectified).
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When repairing the oil pump, the oil pan and strainer should be removed and cleaned. 1. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT TIMING PULLEY (See page EM–13) 2. 4WD: REMOVE FRONT DIFFERENTIAL (See page SA–47) 3. DRAIN ENGINE OIL 4. A/T: REMOVE OIL COOLER TUBE AND CLAMP (A340E: See page AT–24) (A340F: See page AT–30) 5. REMOVE REAR END COVER AND DUST COVER 6. DISCONNECT STARTER WIRE CLAMP 7. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR 8. REMOVE OIL PAN (a) Remove the 17 bolts and 2 nuts. (b) Using SST and a brass bar, separate the oil pan (more…)

REMOVAL INTERFERENCE ENGINE. In the event of Urning belt failure, it is probable that valve to piston damage has occurred. A compression test should be carried out on all cylinders before removing the cylinder head. 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2. Remove: – alternator, – RH engine mounting bracket, – spark plugs. 3. Disconnect the engine wire from alternator bracket and adjusting bar. 4. Remove the No.2 timing belt cover. 5. Turn the crankshaft pulley (clockwise) and align its groove with the timing mark “O’ on the No.1 timing belt cover. 6. Check that the hole of the camshaft timing pulley is aligned with the timing mark on the bearing cap. If not, turn the camshaft one full
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This timing belt installation is supported for Lexus 3.0L V6 – 1999-03 ES300. Removal (ES 300)
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove right side front wheel. Remove right fender apron seal. Remove accessory drive belts. Lower vehicle. Disconnect engine coolant reservoir hose from water outlet. Disconnect ground strap connectors. 2. Remove engine moving control rod and engine mounting bracket No. 2 (right side), located near timing belt cover. Remove generator-to-engine bracket for access to timing belt covers. 3. Using Pulley Holder (09213-54015) or equivalent and Handle (09330-00021) or equivalent, hold crankshaft pulley. Remove crankshaft pulley bolt. Using puller, remove crankshaft pulley. Remove No. 1 and No. 2 timing belt covers and gaskets. See Fig. 1 . Remove (more…)

Removal (Frontier, Pathfinder, QX4 & Xterra)
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove the engine undercover. Drain coolant and remove the radiator.
Remove engine cooling fan and water pump pulley. Remove accessory drive belts. Remove spark plugs.
2. Remove distributor protector. Remove A/C compressor drive belt idler bracket. Remove fresh air intake
tube from rocker cover. Remove thermostat housing hose.
3. Rotate crankshaft to set No. 1 cylinder at TDC on compression stroke. See Fig. 1 . Remove crankshaft
pulley bolt and remove crankshaft pulley. Remove front upper and lower timing belt covers. See Fig. 2 .
4. Align punch mark on left camshaft sprocket with punch mark on timing belt upper rear cover. Align
punch mark on crankshaft sprocket with notch on oil pump housing. See Fig. 3 . Install crankshaft pulley
bolt so that crankshaft can be rotated.
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Moroso Crankshaft Wipers are designed so that they can be trimmed to fit the widest possible range of counter-weight, rod/stroke configurations. They are to be mounted to the starter side of the block only. The Moroso Crankshaft Wiper is engineered to clear assemblies down to 2.9 IN. of stroke using stock type rods. As the stroke is increased and /or larger rods used, the amount of material to be removed increases. Do not be alarmed at the amount of grinding and trimming with shears which may be necessary to clear your particular assembly. We recommend.030” to .045” clearance around all moving components. After you have trimmed your wiper, be sure to smooth all edges to prevent all potential engine damage due to burrs vibrating off into the crankcase. Before final assembly, double check for clearance when the crankshaft is rotated a full 360 degrees. Be sure to account for “thrust end play” while checking for proper clearance. After final fitting and deburring, cement the wiper to the block. You can use contact cement or weather-strip adhesive (An alternate method would be to use tiny flat head screws or pinning). Next, install the pan gaskets in the usual manner. Due to the slightly increased height on one side,
Be sure to use a dab of silicone in the corners where the rubber ends meet the side rail gaskets.
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Preparing the Crankshaft and Convertor for Installation
• Always check the crankshaft pilot for burrs and out-of-round.
• Remove any rust with emery paper and lightly grease pocket receiving torque convertor pilot hub.
• Remove paint from the torque convertor’s crank pilot hub with emery paper.
• Before installation, pre-fit the torque convertor to the flex plate and into the back of the crankshaft. It should be a snug, even fit (not loose or binding).
• Slowly pour two quarts of automatic transmission fluid into the convertor.
• Check the flex plate for cracks or worn teeth.
• Replace the transmission front seal.
• Install the torque convertor on the front of the transmission.
• When installing the torque convertor into the transmission, you will feel it seat 3 times for the input shaft, shaft to stator, and oil pump notches.
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Although the Milodon Chrysler Oil System has been around for 35 years, it is still the leader of the pack in ultimate performance and ability to provide adequate oiling to any serious Chrysler engine, Pro Street through Top Fuel. Today the parts are mostly billet and are run on CNC mills to assure the highest quality available but still the same renowned engineering.
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Chrysler Drive Kit SB & BB

This Drive Kit is designed to work with a Moroso External Oil Pump, Vacuum Pump, and Alternator Mount Kit. (See Our Catalog For Specific SB and BB Chrysler Applications).
Installation
1. Mount the Drive Hub onto the balancer using the (6) 5/16x 2 ź” Bolts. (When using a high profile bolt or crank trigger with a recessed balancer, you will need to use our spacer ring P/N 60023, with our drive kit).
Note: This Drive Kit will work on a factory balancer with an offset hole.
2. Tap the two spring pins into the Drive Mandrel and then install the Drive Mandrel onto the Drive Hub. The Spring Pins will Lock the Mandrel in place.
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