Various 1997-2008 vehicles equipped with either 4 wheel drive or all wheel drive and equipped with control trac may exhibit a shudder on acceleration/deceleration, binding in slow speed turns or noise from the front driveline and/or transfer case. The shudder/binding will occur with the vehicle being operated in the awd/auto 4×4 mode. The shudder/binding may be due to incorrect tire circumference or improper tire inflation pressures.
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1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section. 2. Remove or disconnect the following: • Negative battery cable • Transfer case, if equipped • Transmission 1 • Pressure plate. Loosen the bolts evenly in /2 turn steps. • Clutch disc To install: 1. Install or connect the following: • Clutch disc and pressure plate. Tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly in /2 turns to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm) for 2.4L and 2.5L engines; 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) for 4.0L engines. • Transmission • Transfer case, if equipped • Negative battery cable
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Use this definitive 4-wheel drive front axle engagement guide to understand, diagnose, and repair those mysterious 4-wheel drive front axle issues. This guide explains how the OEM units function, what causes them to fail, and which corrections are available. WHAT IS 4X4 POSI-LOK? 4×4 Posi-Lok is the patented cable activated engagement device designed to replace the failure prone vacuum and electric front axle engagement systems. 4×4 Posi-Lok is not a posi-trac or locker. 4×4 Posi-Lok is simple and easy to install and allows you to engage your front axle from inside the cab. Posi-Lok guarantees that your 4-wheel drive will engage every time because you are in direct control of front axle engagement. A one inch pull of the 4×4 Posi-Lok cable ensures you will have 4-wheel drive when you need it, as long as the transfer case is engaged.
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REMOVAL:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable(s).
2. Remove the torque converter access cover and inspection plate.
3. Remove the transmission pan, drain the fluid and re-install the pan.
4. Remove the fill tube bracket bolt and pull the tube out of the transmission. Retain the fill tube seal. On 4WD models, it will also be necessary to remove the bolt attached to the transfer case vent tube to the converter housing.
5. Rotate the crankshaft with a pry bar from under the vehicle until the converter bolts are accessible.
6. Mark the drive shaft and pinion yokes for assembly alignment. Disconnect and remove the drive shaft. On 4WD models, remove both drive shafts.
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Installation Procedures:
1. Before you remove anything off the truck, measure the pinion angle on the bottom of the differential. Make sure to record the measurement here _____. Once the kit is installed, it is required to put the axle back to this measurement. This will keep the correct caster and camber.
2. Remove the transmission skid plate and then remove the front driveshaft. Take it to a drive line shop and have it extended 1 1/8”. Disconnect the sway bar end links and remove the sway bar. Place a jack under the differential and lift the truck until the wheels are 4-5” off the ground. Place a jack stand on each side of the frame, right under the radiator support. Remove the tires, shocks and steering arm, pan-hard bar / trac bar, sway bar and pitman arm. Let the jack down and remove the coil springs (they should have little tension left on them). NOTE: Set the lower shock bolt and nut aside as they will used in step 10.
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These instructions have been designed for unaltered vehicles. Before you start, check for any variations. Each vehicle may dictate it’s own control mount and cable routing. Therefore, you will need to study the pictures and use your good judgement or seek professional help. Lift kits may govern how and where the cable is routed. Always keep the cable away from heat (exhaust) and rough or sharp edges. If you are concerned about lower cable damage or abrasion, we recommend cutting a length (about 3 feet) of 5/8” ID plastic or rubber hose (garden or heater) to be slid over the cable before assembly. Please keep in mind, the warranty is void on heat damaged or abused cables. Before drilling, check for any electrical wires, hoses, etc
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These instructions have been designed for unaltered vehicles. Before you start, check for any variations. Each vehicle may dictate it’s own control mount and cable routing. Therefore, you will need to study the pictures and use your good judgement or seek professional help. Lift kits may govern how and where the cable is routed. Always keep the cable away from heat (exhaust) and rough or sharp edges. If you are concerned about lower cable damage or abrasion, we recommend cutting a length (about 3 feet) of 5/8” ID plastic or rubber hose (garden or heater) to be slid over the cable before assembly. Please keep in mind, the warranty is void on heat damaged or abused cables. Before drilling, check for any electrical wires, hoses, etc.
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