2002 explorer rear wheel knuckle removal search result
Removal & Installation WARNING Do not loosen the axle wheel hub retainer until the wheel and tire are removed from the vehicle. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is unloaded with the weight of the vehicle applied. NOTE Have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the axle from turning. 1. Before servicing the vehicle, please familiarize yourself with safety procedures. 2. Remove the axle-to-wheel hub retainer nut and washer. 3. Remove the parking brake shoes. WARNING Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV-joint components can result. 4. Press the outboard CV-joint until it is loose from the hub. 5. Remove and discard the toe link-to-wheel knuckle nut. WARNING Do not damage the boot while separating the toe link from Read the rest of this entry »
Before performing the following procedures, disconnect the ABS wheel-speed sensor connector (axle side) and fix the wiring harness to an appropriate place where it will not be pulled by mistake while servicing the vehicle.
1. Remove in the order indicated in the table.
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1999-2000 SUSPENSION’ ‘Front Removal (Except Odyssey & S2000)
1. Loosen lug nuts with vehicle weight on tires. Pry lock tab away from spindle nut, and loosen nut. Raise and support vehicle. Remove lug nuts and spindle nut. Remove wheel assembly. Remove brake hose mounting bolts, caliper assembly, and support aside. DO NOT put weight on flexible brake line.
2. Remove brake disc retaining screws. Install two 8 x 1.25-mm bolts in brake disc, and tighten bolts to force brake disc from hub. Alternate tightening of bolts to prevent brake disc from binding on hub. Disconnect ABS wheel sensor (if equipped) from steering knuckle and set aside. DO NOT disconnect sensor connector. Remove cotter pin and nut from tie rod end.
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The Ford Explorer’s brake system is a relatively robust and trouble-free system. But, that doesn’t mean something can’t go wrong. The Ford Explorer is one of the most common vehicles on our roads. The system is a product of what Ford learned in the late 1990s about brake systems and what it means to customer satisfaction. It is a relatively robust and trouble-free system. But, it does not mean something cannot go wrong. The Explorer’s brake system has large enough rotors and pad surface to safely bring the vehicle to a stop and the rotors can last at least the first two brake jobs depending on the driver. The calipers can last more than 100,000 miles before they might require replacement.
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For rear disc pad removal and installation, DO NOT disconnect brake hose from caliper (wire aside). Replace all pads on an axle if wear indicator on any pad contacts rotor or if pad is worn to within .03″ (.8 mm) of pad backing.
Removal (”A”, “B”, “C”, “K” & “U” Series)
1. Remove 2/3 of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir. Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel. Using “C” clamp, compress caliper piston until it bottoms out in its bore.
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1991-1999 Ford Ranger/Explorer/Mountaineer Engine Fan Removal & Installation
24 May
Posted by admin as Ford
The following procedures for removing the fan clutch gives the factory recommended loosening and tightening directions for the fan hub nut. However, it has been our experience that certain aftermarket parts manufacturers have changed this to enable use of universal fit parts. We recommend trying the factory direction first, then, if the nut doesn’t seem to be moving, reverse the direction. Placing too much load on the water pump snout will break it.
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Part Contents: Hi! I’m Zach Telford, and you’ve downloaded my subwoofer box plans for 1 and 2nd Gen. Ford Explorers and Mercury Mountaineers. As a forewarning, this design has only been tested on a 2nd Gen. Ford Explorer XLT. Ok, now a little bit of background. I’m a 20-yr-old Russian translator for the military. My dad is a contractor, but I grew up with my mom. I spent my summers with dad and learned a little bit about woodworking, but it was mainly framing. I’m really good with math, but this box really only required some basic geometry (Pythagorean and SOHCAHTOA).
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Rear lid trim Tools Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required Lower rear lid trim, assembly overview (Golf) 1. Lower trim panel Removing 70-5, Lower rear lid trim, removing and installing (Golf) 2. Rear lid 3. Screws Qty. 2 4. Nuts Qty. 2 5. Clips Qty. 10 6. Upper trim Lower rear lid trim, removing and installing (Golf) Removing – Remove screws – 1 – in grip depressions. – Slide Wedge T10039/1 between trim – 2 – and lid – 3 – . – Remove trim out of mounts in lid. Start at lower edge of lid. – Remove side straps – 4 – from upper trim
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2001 Subaru Legacy GT Sedan AWD F4-2.5L SOHC Vehicle Level Steering and Suspension Suspension Wheel Bearing Service and Repair
DISASSEMBLE 1. Remove knuckle. Refer to Steering and Suspension. 2. Using ST1 and ST2, remove hub from rear housing. 3. Remove back plate from rear housing. 4. Using a standard screwdriver, remove outer and inner oil seals. CAUTION: Use new oil seals. 5. Using flat bladed screwdriver, remove snap ring. 6. Using ST1 and ST2, remove bearing by pressing inner race. ST1 927430000 HOUSING STAND ST2 927440000 Read the rest of this entry »
This how-to is based on my experience in replacing the rear wheel bearing on my 2000 2.5RS. I believe it is one of the more difficult setups to work with, because of the e-brake and lateral link bolt. Overall, this should be very similar to whatever car you have. There are different ways of doing this, many people prefer to simply take the whole knuckle to a shop, have everything pressed out and new stuff pressed in. The method covered here does not require you to remove the knuckle from the car.
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