Removal & Installation WARNING Do not loosen the axle wheel hub retainer until the wheel and tire are removed from the vehicle. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is unloaded with the weight of the vehicle applied. NOTE Have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the axle from turning. 1. Before servicing the vehicle, please familiarize yourself with safety procedures.€ 2. Remove the axle-to-wheel hub retainer nut and washer.€ 3. Remove the parking brake shoes. WARNING Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV-joint components can result.€ 4. Press the outboard CV-joint until it is loose from the hub.€ 5. Remove and discard the toe link-to-wheel knuckle nut. WARNING Do not damage the boot while separating the toe link from Read the rest of this entry »

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Installation step the front wheel bearing for Ford Transit:
1 Remove the wheel hub (refer to the manufacturers instructions).
2 Place the bearing separator under the bearing assembly, making sure the flat side is facing up and under the bolt holes. Tighten the bearing separator by turning the nuts evenly (fig.1B).
3 Place the puller insert into the centre of the hub, see fig.1A.
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The Ford Explorer’s brake system is a relatively robust and trouble-free system. But, that doesn’t mean something can’t go wrong. The Ford Explorer is one of the most common vehicles on our roads. The system is a product of what Ford learned in the late 1990s about brake systems and what it means to customer satisfaction. It is a relatively robust and trouble-free system. But, it does not mean something cannot go wrong. The Explorer’s brake system has large enough rotors and pad surface to safely bring the vehicle to a stop and the rotors can last at least the first two brake jobs depending on the driver. The calipers can last more than 100,000 miles before they might require replacement.
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how to properly determine the main bearing bore diameter on 1993-2002 Ford 2.5L VIN B and KL engines. This engine is made by Mazda and used in the Probe and 626 car models. It appears some previously published information may have been inaccurate. Many service specifications have listed a housing bore diameter .002˝ smaller than it should be.
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2001 Subaru Legacy GT Sedan AWD F4-2.5L SOHC Vehicle Level Steering and Suspension Suspension Wheel Bearing Service and Repair
DISASSEMBLE 1. Remove knuckle. Refer to Steering and Suspension. 2. Using ST1 and ST2, remove hub from rear housing. 3. Remove back plate from rear housing. 4. Using a standard screwdriver, remove outer and inner oil seals. CAUTION: Use new oil seals. 5. Using flat bladed screwdriver, remove snap ring. 6. Using ST1 and ST2, remove bearing by pressing inner race. ST1 927430000 HOUSING STAND ST2 927440000 Read the rest of this entry »

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This how-to is based on my experience in replacing the rear wheel bearing on my 2000 2.5RS. I believe it is one of the more difficult setups to work with, because of the e-brake and lateral link bolt. Overall, this should be very similar to whatever car you have. There are different ways of doing this, many people prefer to simply take the whole knuckle to a shop, have everything pressed out and new stuff pressed in. The method covered here does not require you to remove the knuckle from the car.
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First remove the old cam bearings. Start by inserting the Black Drive Cap with the CD- ring into in the end of the Arbor you will tap with a hammer – in this case the end nearest to the permanently affixed Drive Mount. Slide the Black Drive Spool onto the Arbor, followed by the Red Spool Stabilizer, as shown in Fig. 1. Then proceed with removal of #1 bearing, tapping with a 31b miminum brass or lead hammer (steel hammers may damage the ends of the Arbor). Then reposition the Black Drive Spool and the Black Drive Cap onto the other end of the Arbor to remove #2-3-4-5 bearings, with the Blue Spool Stabilizer positioned as show in Fig. 2. Note: Not for use with Rodeck small blocks.
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The following procedures for removing the fan clutch gives the factory recommended loosening and tightening directions for the fan hub nut. However, it has been our experience that certain aftermarket parts manufacturers have changed this to enable use of universal fit parts. We recommend trying the factory direction first, then, if the nut doesn’t seem to be moving, reverse the direction. Placing too much load on the water pump snout will break it.
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Part Contents: Hi! I’m Zach Telford, and you’ve downloaded my subwoofer box plans for 1 and 2nd Gen. Ford Explorers and Mercury Mountaineers. As a forewarning, this design has only been tested on a 2nd Gen. Ford Explorer XLT. Ok, now a little bit of background. I’m a 20-yr-old Russian translator for the military. My dad is a contractor, but I grew up with my mom. I spent my summers with dad and learned a little bit about woodworking, but it was mainly framing. I’m really good with math, but this box really only required some basic geometry (Pythagorean and SOHCAHTOA).
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You AC should be cooling more effectively than that on MaxAC − I’d take it back and get the pressure checked to ensure you don’t have a leak. Something is funny about your problem though as MaxAC should work even with a bad blend door. MaxAC opens the recirculating air damper, shuts off the flow to the heater core and cranks the AC so you should get full cooling. If you look on this picture below you will see how it all is setup − the blend door is in the middle and controls air flow around the heater core after the AC evaporator. If the heater core is off then you should still get full cooling even if the blend door is wonky.
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